These two boys were cooking some sweets (called jalebi) along the side of the road just outside of the Infosys campus. They were excited to see me and even more excited to have their work documented on camera.
Monday, July 31, 2006
Jalebi: after
And this is what they look like ready to eat. Orange and sticky and as sweet as anything!
Sunday, July 30, 2006
Night Fountain
The Infosys campus has some very pretty spots.
The curved structure in the background is part of a new office building under construction.
The curved structure in the background is part of a new office building under construction.
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Vacation in Thailand
Now that the Indian ban on blogs has been somewhat relaxed, I can write about my trip to Thailand the weekend before last. Thai airways conveniently departs from Bangalore direct to Bangkok at midnight Thursday night; which, allowing for the three hour flight and a short time-zone shift allowed me to clear immigration, exchange some currency, and meet my friend and former San Francisco roomate Kevin in BKK at around 6AM on Friday morning.
We wasted no time in securing a ride to the island of Koh Samet - a four hour journey by bus and ferry. This island is apparently less developed and crowded than the ones further South. Samet was a fantastic mix of white-sand beaches, warm waters, oceanside barbeques of fresh seafood, friendly people - many Thais with a number of Aussie and European backpackers, simple bungalows where one could fall asleep and wake up to the sound of gently crashing waves, short trails to hike over rocks and through dense trees to go between the aforementioned white-sand beaches, danceclubs playing current American club music, a bar with a Thai band covering current and classic American pop songs - including a surprisingly good rendition of Creedence's "Have You Ever Seen the Rain," and lots of Thai rum.
On Sunday, with a little saddness at leaving and a fresh leg wound from a particularly sharp rock, we caught a taxi from our beach to the ferry. And by taxi, I mean that we got in the back of a pickup truck retrofitted with steel ralings and bounced over the dirt trail across the island. After perusing shopfuls of every imaginable variety of dried fruit and dried seafood, we made our way back to Bangkok.
And it's quite a city. The size, distance between attractions, and number of freeways reminded me of Los Angeles. The fact that every second person I saw was wearing a yellow shirt in honor of the King (and they really do love the King) made me feel very foreign, indeed. We got settled in time to visit the Suan Lum night bazaar - complete with good food, better beer, more bands (singing Thai and American songs), and blocks of semi-permanent shopping stalls. It even has a ferris wheel. Then it was on to entertainment. Our first choice, the Thai Elvis, wasn't performing that night (neither was the Thai Thom Jones), so we hit up a blues bar called Tokyo Joe's. The music was great (even on amateur night), and it had a nice ambiance.
Monday was tourist day. But before that we met up with a family friend of mine, Kitty, from LA who just happened to be in Bangkok at the same time. She took Kevin and me to a nice lunch right on the river and pointed us in the direction of the Royal Grand Palace.
Which, it turns out, is connected to a temple called Wat Phra Kaew. Both were impressive. I was struck by the similarities between Thai and Hindu religious culture. Both have brightly colored temples with intricate carvings, similar iconography, and similar rituals. I learned that Buddhism reached Thailand from India and that it was an offshoot of Hinduism. But I was still surprised to see a mural of the Hindu epic story, the Ramayana, surrounding the central Thai temple (they call it the Ramakien, though). We visited two other temples, including one that housed a 150 foot-long gold statue of Buddha reclining. Recalling my own two days on the beach, I could identify with that one.
We wasted no time in securing a ride to the island of Koh Samet - a four hour journey by bus and ferry. This island is apparently less developed and crowded than the ones further South. Samet was a fantastic mix of white-sand beaches, warm waters, oceanside barbeques of fresh seafood, friendly people - many Thais with a number of Aussie and European backpackers, simple bungalows where one could fall asleep and wake up to the sound of gently crashing waves, short trails to hike over rocks and through dense trees to go between the aforementioned white-sand beaches, danceclubs playing current American club music, a bar with a Thai band covering current and classic American pop songs - including a surprisingly good rendition of Creedence's "Have You Ever Seen the Rain," and lots of Thai rum.
On Sunday, with a little saddness at leaving and a fresh leg wound from a particularly sharp rock, we caught a taxi from our beach to the ferry. And by taxi, I mean that we got in the back of a pickup truck retrofitted with steel ralings and bounced over the dirt trail across the island. After perusing shopfuls of every imaginable variety of dried fruit and dried seafood, we made our way back to Bangkok.
And it's quite a city. The size, distance between attractions, and number of freeways reminded me of Los Angeles. The fact that every second person I saw was wearing a yellow shirt in honor of the King (and they really do love the King) made me feel very foreign, indeed. We got settled in time to visit the Suan Lum night bazaar - complete with good food, better beer, more bands (singing Thai and American songs), and blocks of semi-permanent shopping stalls. It even has a ferris wheel. Then it was on to entertainment. Our first choice, the Thai Elvis, wasn't performing that night (neither was the Thai Thom Jones), so we hit up a blues bar called Tokyo Joe's. The music was great (even on amateur night), and it had a nice ambiance.
Monday was tourist day. But before that we met up with a family friend of mine, Kitty, from LA who just happened to be in Bangkok at the same time. She took Kevin and me to a nice lunch right on the river and pointed us in the direction of the Royal Grand Palace.
Which, it turns out, is connected to a temple called Wat Phra Kaew. Both were impressive. I was struck by the similarities between Thai and Hindu religious culture. Both have brightly colored temples with intricate carvings, similar iconography, and similar rituals. I learned that Buddhism reached Thailand from India and that it was an offshoot of Hinduism. But I was still surprised to see a mural of the Hindu epic story, the Ramayana, surrounding the central Thai temple (they call it the Ramakien, though). We visited two other temples, including one that housed a 150 foot-long gold statue of Buddha reclining. Recalling my own two days on the beach, I could identify with that one.
On Approach
Koh Samet is relatively small, but there was more than enough to keep us occupied for a few days. It's a 45 minute or so ride out from the mainland. The water was an nice shade of light green and the sky was picturesque.
The weather stayed nice most of the trip, but we had rain for at least an hour each day.
The weather stayed nice most of the trip, but we had rain for at least an hour each day.
Fire Dancers
Each night these guys were out twirling fire (and sometimes spitting it) on the beach to a soundtrack of trance music.
Beach Sport
In addition to the requisite frisbee, Kevin had a football (on its way back to his site to figure prominently in the pee-wee league he is starting for junior-high school kids).
Despite the recent attention to soccer, we were able to teach a few French backpackers how to play American football.
Despite the recent attention to soccer, we were able to teach a few French backpackers how to play American football.
Stormy Sea
The weather was inclement and the sea was rough on the return to the mainland. You can see just a little of Thailand on the horizon.
This boat is very similar to the ferry I was on (exept that one was blue).
This boat is very similar to the ferry I was on (exept that one was blue).
Tokyo Joe's
In addition to a great blues jam, the bartenders were a lot of fun at Joe's. They served me my first Guinness in Asia, which earned them a special place in my liver.
It was here, though, that I found an example of information having real tangible value. The bar stocked Jameson and Bailey's, but no one had heard of an "Irish Car Bomb." I convinced the manager that it was a popular drink in the States and would make a good addition to their menu. We eventually negotiated a mutually beneficial trade. I wrote down the recipe from memory, and she mixed samples for Kevin and me on the house.
That's information management for you. Next time I travel, I'll have to pack Mr. Boston.
It was here, though, that I found an example of information having real tangible value. The bar stocked Jameson and Bailey's, but no one had heard of an "Irish Car Bomb." I convinced the manager that it was a popular drink in the States and would make a good addition to their menu. We eventually negotiated a mutually beneficial trade. I wrote down the recipe from memory, and she mixed samples for Kevin and me on the house.
That's information management for you. Next time I travel, I'll have to pack Mr. Boston.
Giant at Wat Phra Kaew
This guy was guarding (and helping to hold up) one of the towers at the wat. The grounds were impeccably maintained. In fact, I saw a number of people involved in restoration of the major mural on site. The Emerald Buddha (a statue carved of jade) resides in another building in this wat.
Temple of the Dawn
The two giant statues guarding this building at Wat Arun are...well...giants. The main structure is off to the left of this one and is decorated with broken pieces of porcelain. This particular wat was constructed in the early 19th century around when Bangkok became the capitol of Thailand.
The Big Buddha
150 feet long and 50 feet high makes for a very big Buddha, indeed. His expression is, as you might imagine, quite relaxed. Interestingly, on the soles of his feet is a mosaic in mother-of-pearl.
Thursday, July 13, 2006
Cruisin the Backwaters
Infosys decided to treat us interns to a taste of the good life in India this past weekend. Kerala: "God's Own Country" I visited northern Kerala the weekend before, but this time I was heading to Cochin, a port-city further South.
The 12-hour, overnight train ride from Bangalore on Friday night did not provide a very auspicious beginning - what with trying to sleep on a fold-out table and stacked three people high in the train car. Now that I've travelled overnight on a plane, bus, and train, I still can't say which is worse. But things improved dramatically from there.
About 70 of us were put up in the Taj Malabar, a luxury hotel overlooking the water. After freshening up, we explored the old city, Fort Kochi. Hidden amongst the antiques dealers and handicraft shops were a 17th century palace built for the Maharaja by the Dutch and a Jewish synagogue. Apparently there has been a Jewish community in Cochin for centuries - since the establishment of Israel, though, all the youngsters have left and only 14 people remain.
We also visited the St. Francis church, built by Portuguese traders in the 16th century and later occupied by the Dutch and British as European control over the spice trade changed hands. I even saw the gravestone of explorer Vasco de Gama (see below for more). We also saw Chinese fishing nets - still used in the traditional way - on the shore of the bay and prawns with the largest claws I have ever seen. More like lobsters than shrimp.
The day rounded off with a sunset cruise on the bay and a demonstration of traditional South Indian "Kathakali" dance. Plus a few cocktails and cigars in the lobby - hey it's was a luxury hotel.
The second day, though was magical. A few of the more intrepid among us took a tour on the backwaters (river mouths and canals that periodically flood with tidal sea water). It was among the most beautiful scenery I have ever laid eyes on. The traditional open-air boats carried us around lush islands and under uncountable numbers of palm trees. We stopped at one point to drink the water of tender coconuts. One of the island residents climbed up and cut down coconuts for each of us and proceeded to open them deftly with three strokes of his knife. They also oblidged us with group photographs and a tour of one of their houses (the young son was learning English at school).
Though it was hard to leave, we made our way back to the train station and another 12-hour trip back to Bangalore. Of the places I've visited in India so far, this is my favorite.
The 12-hour, overnight train ride from Bangalore on Friday night did not provide a very auspicious beginning - what with trying to sleep on a fold-out table and stacked three people high in the train car. Now that I've travelled overnight on a plane, bus, and train, I still can't say which is worse. But things improved dramatically from there.
About 70 of us were put up in the Taj Malabar, a luxury hotel overlooking the water. After freshening up, we explored the old city, Fort Kochi. Hidden amongst the antiques dealers and handicraft shops were a 17th century palace built for the Maharaja by the Dutch and a Jewish synagogue. Apparently there has been a Jewish community in Cochin for centuries - since the establishment of Israel, though, all the youngsters have left and only 14 people remain.
We also visited the St. Francis church, built by Portuguese traders in the 16th century and later occupied by the Dutch and British as European control over the spice trade changed hands. I even saw the gravestone of explorer Vasco de Gama (see below for more). We also saw Chinese fishing nets - still used in the traditional way - on the shore of the bay and prawns with the largest claws I have ever seen. More like lobsters than shrimp.
The day rounded off with a sunset cruise on the bay and a demonstration of traditional South Indian "Kathakali" dance. Plus a few cocktails and cigars in the lobby - hey it's was a luxury hotel.
The second day, though was magical. A few of the more intrepid among us took a tour on the backwaters (river mouths and canals that periodically flood with tidal sea water). It was among the most beautiful scenery I have ever laid eyes on. The traditional open-air boats carried us around lush islands and under uncountable numbers of palm trees. We stopped at one point to drink the water of tender coconuts. One of the island residents climbed up and cut down coconuts for each of us and proceeded to open them deftly with three strokes of his knife. They also oblidged us with group photographs and a tour of one of their houses (the young son was learning English at school).
Though it was hard to leave, we made our way back to the train station and another 12-hour trip back to Bangalore. Of the places I've visited in India so far, this is my favorite.
Chinese Fishing Nets
These nets are indicative of the central role Cochin once played in the international trade routes.
Though they were weren't in use when we visited, they look very imposing along the shore. When they are active, the fisherman have to race the crows to collect fish off the nets.
Though they were weren't in use when we visited, they look very imposing along the shore. When they are active, the fisherman have to race the crows to collect fish off the nets.
Jewish Synagogue
Though it doesn't look much like a synagogue from the outside, the clock has numbers in Malayam and in Hebrew. Apparently the dwindling Jewish community in Cochin dates from the diaspora.
The Oldest Church in India
Originally founded by the Portuguese, then used by the Dutch, and finally taken over by the British, the inside walls have gravestones in three different languages. Services are still held regularly in English and Malayalam.
Trivia of the day: Vasco de Gama was burried here for 14 years, before his remains were returned to Lisbon.
Trivia of the day: Vasco de Gama was burried here for 14 years, before his remains were returned to Lisbon.
Boatman
This old man used a long bamboo pole to propel our boat down the river. Only at one point was the water too deep for him to touch the bottom.
Reflection in a Canal
Once our boats crossed the main river, we explored some canals. The banks were strewn with seashells - small clams and mussles. During the high tidal seasons, seawater floods the area. And during the rainy season, the canals revert to freshwater.
Coconut Hunting
The backwater areas are covered in palm trees. Coconuts are one of Kerala's main crops (and exports). While the pickers usually climb these trees unaided, they were using clever bamboo ladders because monsoon rains had made the trunks too slippery.
Coconut Decapitation
We were treated to freshly picked tender coconuts. The coconut water was refreshing and the tender flesh was delicious. I was converted to a coconut fan. Incidentally, with that purpose-built knife, he could prepare the cocunt for drinking (complete with a one-inch hole) in about three swipes.
Siblings
The boy in the back was learning English in school and told us about his family. They were all happy to pose for and with us in pictures. Even though they have a small house on an rural island, it's equipped with a modern kitchen, TVs and a DVD player.
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Into the Rainforest
The rainforest of Southeastern India was my travel destination last weekend. After four weeks of crowded city living, I needed some nature time. So I headed, with seven other interns, to the Wayanad area in the state of Kerala.
I took my first Indian train ride to the city of Mysore - 3 hours East. It was fine, though we were delayed. Mysore is a smaller city than Bangalore and I liked it right away. Part of that is likely due to the restaurant we chose - Southern Star. Great food and ambiance (we dined outdoors on the patio next to the hotel's swimming pool). And as I'm walking towards the maitre'd, what does the house band start playing? Neil Diamond! The three guys were a lot of fun, they played good old American rock 'n roll - Elvis and Roy Orbison, and even took our requests for Johnny Cash.
While waiting for the second half our our fellow travellers the next morning, those of us already in Mysore visited the local temple. It was interesting to see an active temple, but the guys hustling us for money outside left a sour taste in my mouth.
After a comparatively short ride (only another three hours) by hired car, we arrived in Wayanad and set about seeing the sights. There are a number of hills, caves, waterfalls, and lakes spread around 100 or so square kilometers. We visited the Edakkal caves. A nice few kilometer hike/climb up into the hills took us to (a) a nice view of the intensely green valley, (b) more monkeys, and (c) a large cave with prehistoric carvings in the walls. The cave was discovered in the 1800s by the British. Apparently, through carbon dating of artifacts found in the cave, they decided that the carvings were about from about 4000 BC. There were a lot of lines, but I'm glad there was a point out what they were meant to represent (a chief, two women, and an elephant).
Following a short break to change a flat tire (which seemed like the most exciting occurance all day in the small village we stopped at), we reached a lake that I believe would be very picturesque when sky is not opening up in a torrential downpour. But that's the monsoon for you.
We had a little more appreciation for the rain the next day when we hiked to the Sential Rock waterfall. The two interns wearing bathing suits in anticipation of swimming thought better of it when we saw how powerful the wet weather had made the falls. Getting back to the trailhead, we had a great view of lush green hills rising in the distance with white scars of waterfalls cutting through them on one side and the jigsaw-puzzle pattern of a tea plantation on the other.
To top it off, we passed (slowly) a wild elephant on our way back. For those of you keeping score at home, yes: that's three elephants in three weeks.
A nice weekend, indeed.
I took my first Indian train ride to the city of Mysore - 3 hours East. It was fine, though we were delayed. Mysore is a smaller city than Bangalore and I liked it right away. Part of that is likely due to the restaurant we chose - Southern Star. Great food and ambiance (we dined outdoors on the patio next to the hotel's swimming pool). And as I'm walking towards the maitre'd, what does the house band start playing? Neil Diamond! The three guys were a lot of fun, they played good old American rock 'n roll - Elvis and Roy Orbison, and even took our requests for Johnny Cash.
While waiting for the second half our our fellow travellers the next morning, those of us already in Mysore visited the local temple. It was interesting to see an active temple, but the guys hustling us for money outside left a sour taste in my mouth.
After a comparatively short ride (only another three hours) by hired car, we arrived in Wayanad and set about seeing the sights. There are a number of hills, caves, waterfalls, and lakes spread around 100 or so square kilometers. We visited the Edakkal caves. A nice few kilometer hike/climb up into the hills took us to (a) a nice view of the intensely green valley, (b) more monkeys, and (c) a large cave with prehistoric carvings in the walls. The cave was discovered in the 1800s by the British. Apparently, through carbon dating of artifacts found in the cave, they decided that the carvings were about from about 4000 BC. There were a lot of lines, but I'm glad there was a point out what they were meant to represent (a chief, two women, and an elephant).
Following a short break to change a flat tire (which seemed like the most exciting occurance all day in the small village we stopped at), we reached a lake that I believe would be very picturesque when sky is not opening up in a torrential downpour. But that's the monsoon for you.
We had a little more appreciation for the rain the next day when we hiked to the Sential Rock waterfall. The two interns wearing bathing suits in anticipation of swimming thought better of it when we saw how powerful the wet weather had made the falls. Getting back to the trailhead, we had a great view of lush green hills rising in the distance with white scars of waterfalls cutting through them on one side and the jigsaw-puzzle pattern of a tea plantation on the other.
To top it off, we passed (slowly) a wild elephant on our way back. For those of you keeping score at home, yes: that's three elephants in three weeks.
A nice weekend, indeed.
Demon Statue
This colorful fella is the demon that was defeated by the local god. He and his snake were draped in garlands of fresh flowers.
Chamundeeswari Temple
An active temple in Mysore dedicated to the local diety, Chamudeeswari. The roof-part has seven levels because seven is an auspicious number.
Temple Door Panel
The large metal doors of the temple each had 12 or so panels like this with intricate reliefs of gods and other sacred images. They reminded me of Brunelleschi's doors to the Duomo in Florence.
In The Distance
Though the trees of the forest were all around, hills poked their heads up in the distance.
Green Canyon
So much green. No wonder they call this area "God's Own Garden." The overcast skies added to the effect.
Sentinal Rock Falls
This waterfall was a short hike from the main road. Because the monsoon rains have started, there was quite a lot of water coming through.
Tea
The elevation and climate must be good for growing tea, because there were acres and acres of tea plantations sprawling across the hills.
Tusker
Yet another elephant. This one, though, was wild. We came across him driving through the Bandipur national park. He was crossing the road and the driver (wisely) stopped. He didn't pay us much attention (thankfully - I've heard stories of wild elephants charging at people and cars), but ate some tree branches and drank from a watering hole.
Though it's hard to tell from this photo, he was pretty big, those tusks are a copule of feet long.
Though it's hard to tell from this photo, he was pretty big, those tusks are a copule of feet long.
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