Delhi was to be the final stop on our country-crossing tour. A base for getting first to the Taj Mahal and, then, back home. And, as a reward for the hard work of traveling in a foreign land, we were booked into the luxurious Taj Palace hotel for two nights.
After some initial trepidation about the warnings of violence around Independence Day (and a chat with the director of security for the US Embassy there), we decided to stick with the plan, but lay a little lower while in Delhi. After almost two weeks and four cities, we were grateful for the opportunity to recharge the batteries.
After enjoying the extravagant Sunday brunch in the hotel (not since the Leela back in Bangalore...), we set out for a little Delhi sightseeing. The India Arch was was practically inaccessible due to the heightened security, as, literally, was Red Fort. But we enjoyed Humayan's tomb - a preview of what waited in Agra both chronologically for us and historically. We also walked in a throng of pilgrims and gawkers towards the beautifully styled Baha'i temple.
The next days was given over to Agra and the Taj Mahal. And it proved to be a magnificent site. Despite the squalor and crowding of Agra, the Taj Mahal is magnificent. Walls and beautiful gateways hide it from view until you are right upon it. And when it bursts into view, all the pictures you have seen fail to do it justice. All white marble pillars and domes reaching skyward. A humbling monument to love and faith. Though the guidebooks suggest arriving at dawn or dusk, I quite liked the puffy-cloud mid-day viewing we were treated to. We passed the rest of our time in Agra visiting a different Red Fort (complete with warring packs of monkeys), where Shah Jahan spent the last years of his life imprisoned and gazing across the river at his architectural masterpiece.
Our transit to and from Agra was as hellish as the sightseeing was wonderful. I had booked train tickets a month earlier (2nd class a/c), but we found ourselves departing Delhi in an un-airconditioned and overcrowded car. After too many confusing discussions with unhelpful railway and ticket agents (all of whom, conveniently, spoke only a very little English), one of our fellow passengers explained that the particular car we were all supposed to ride had broken and was replaced with this significantly less comfortable substitute (how a single car in the middle of a train breaks was never fully explained). We were, of course, entitled to a refund of the cost difference between our original tickets and the class we ended up taking. It would be well spent on non-sweat-soaked clothes when we arrived.
Wary now, of the vagaries of the Indian rail system, we arrived an hour early for our return trip...to deal with any car substitutions. Instead, our train was delayed. And then delayed further. And then again. Until we had spent four hours on a platform being continually harassed by beggars, unruly children, and rats. Without an end to the waiting in sight, and with Independence Day and its threatened violence fast approaching, we convinced the tourist office to wake up a taxi driver to drive us the four hours back to Delhi on the more reliable highways.
After the excitement and terror of Agra, we spent our last day in India relaxing. Each of us took advantage of the hotel spa to enjoy some massage therapy, a cool swim in the pool, to lounge around in bathrobes, reflect on the journey, and pack for the long flight back to California.
Friday, August 18, 2006
Tuesday, August 15, 2006
India Gate
Our tour of Delhi started off at the India Gate. Security was very high, in anticipation of the Independence Day celebration on Aug 15.
Humayan's Tomb
Constructed earlier than the Taj Mahal, this tomb for the Mughal emperor, Humayan, in Delhi shows some of the architectural elements that would later be refined in the Taj.
Patterned Windows
The windows of the mausoleum were intricately styled. I had to play around with a photo.
Baha'i Lotus Temple
A fairly new addition to the stable of religious sites in Delhi, the Baha'i temple is shaped like a lotus blossom. Or like the Sydney Opera House, depending on who you ask. It was getting into the evening, so we didn't go inside.
Taj Mahal Gateway
The Taj is secluded in its inner courtyard, surrounded by a wall and this gateway. Impressive in its own right, built from white marble and local red sandstone and also inscribed in Persian, the gateway prevents you from seeing the palace until you have made it into the courtyard. This adds to the sense of awe and wonder.
Inlaid Marble
All of the detail work on the Taj is done with carved semiprecious stones that are inlaid into the marble. The amount of work that went into this palace is mind boggling.
Taj Mahal and Gardens
It's so magnificent that I have to post another photo. All the photographs from all the tourists and professionals can't do it justice.
Red Fort Arches
While most of the fort is constructed from red sandstone, this platform of arches and a few other parts of the fort are made from white marble.
Sunday, August 13, 2006
Jaipur
Jaipur, to us, was a city of forts, palaces, pink walls, friendly people, gems, carpets, and animals.
Driving from the airport early in the morning, we turned a corner and saw a camel pulling a cart. Around the next corner, there was an elephant lumbering down the middle of the road! We also saw monkeys, donkeys, peacocks, and - of course - cows. We even got to ride elephants up to the Amber Palace on our second day in Jaipur.
The first day, though, we took in the splendid weather to visit the Jai Mahal - a palace built on a lake and located (conveniently) across the road from our hotel. We also walked around the City Palace (which is still owned and operated by the Maharaja of Jaipur) and see its museum, including caligraphed and illuminated Hindu and Muslim texts. After that, we ventured up into the hills to the Jaigarh Fort for breathtaking views of the valley, beautiful architecture, and a traditional Rajasthani puppet show. D and K even got to ride a camel around the Fort.
We spent the evening shopping - Jaipur is known for gems and carpets. And we were able to find a restaurant that everyone could agree on in the hotel. By then, we were exhausted - a 5:45am flight can do that to you.
So we got an early start the second day and rode a pair of elephants up to the Amber Palace, just outside of Jaipur city. To make the India experience that much more complete, a man was charming a black cobra in the parking lot. Carved of marble, and built out over the course of three generations, the palace was very impressive.
Towards dusk, we braved the mosquitos and headed out to the Tiger fort, for beautiful views of the city all lit up.
Rajasthan was a place I'd definitely want to explore more of. The trip is winding to a close, with Delhi as our last stop before we cross the Pacific again.
Driving from the airport early in the morning, we turned a corner and saw a camel pulling a cart. Around the next corner, there was an elephant lumbering down the middle of the road! We also saw monkeys, donkeys, peacocks, and - of course - cows. We even got to ride elephants up to the Amber Palace on our second day in Jaipur.
The first day, though, we took in the splendid weather to visit the Jai Mahal - a palace built on a lake and located (conveniently) across the road from our hotel. We also walked around the City Palace (which is still owned and operated by the Maharaja of Jaipur) and see its museum, including caligraphed and illuminated Hindu and Muslim texts. After that, we ventured up into the hills to the Jaigarh Fort for breathtaking views of the valley, beautiful architecture, and a traditional Rajasthani puppet show. D and K even got to ride a camel around the Fort.
We spent the evening shopping - Jaipur is known for gems and carpets. And we were able to find a restaurant that everyone could agree on in the hotel. By then, we were exhausted - a 5:45am flight can do that to you.
So we got an early start the second day and rode a pair of elephants up to the Amber Palace, just outside of Jaipur city. To make the India experience that much more complete, a man was charming a black cobra in the parking lot. Carved of marble, and built out over the course of three generations, the palace was very impressive.
Towards dusk, we braved the mosquitos and headed out to the Tiger fort, for beautiful views of the city all lit up.
Rajasthan was a place I'd definitely want to explore more of. The trip is winding to a close, with Delhi as our last stop before we cross the Pacific again.
Water Palace
The Jai Mahal, or Water Palace, sits outside of the old city of Jaipur, on the road to the Amber Palace. The lake is now part of a resivoir with a dam behind it. Our hotel was situated nicely right across the street from this palace.
Gates of the Pink City
They don't call it the Pink City for nothing. Almost all of the buildings in old Jaipur are painted this salmon-pink color, a tradition that dates from 1876 when the Maharaja welcomed the Prince of Wales.
Peacocks
Peacocks figure into a lot of the art of this region - as a symbol of royalty and beauty. We even saw a few live ones roaming around.
Silver Urn
This is one of a pair of huge silver urns. The signs claim them as the largest single pieces of silver in the world. They each stand over five feet tall and were used by a previous Maharaja to carry holy water from the Ganges to England when he met the Queen.
Palace Archway
Arches became more and more common as we moved North across India into the Mughal areas.
Door Design
The patterns and designs all over the City Palace were a fascinating blend of Hindu and Muslim architectural traditions, like this star pattern on an inner door.
Jaigarh Fort Tower and Walls
The view of and from Jaigarh fort is fantastic. The air was clear and the fort is perched high on a hill above the towns of Amer and Jaipur.
Riding the Camel
D got to ride this camel at the Jaigarh fort. From the look on her face, I'd say she's enjoying it.
Riding The Elephant
Finally got to ride an elephant! This one took us up the winding hill to the Amber Palace.
Group in Amber Palace
The palace was constructed almost entirely of marble. Those details are not painting, but inlaid stone. All four of us agreed that Jaipur was our favorite city.
Amer City and Valley
From the Amber Palace, one can look out over the city of Amer, across the valley, and [it feels like] across Rajasthan.
Jaipur Night From Tiger Fort
At dusk, we drove up to the Tiger fort, above Jaipur, and caught some stunning views of the city all lit up. Unfortunately, the mosquitos were enjoying the view as well.
Friday, August 11, 2006
Mumbai in the Rain
Monsoon was in full effect when we visited Mumbai (nee Bombay). Located on the middle-West coast of India, it got more rain this season than any other city we visited.
After an unnecessarily grueling ordeal with our hotel (the drawback to traveling during the low-tourist-season is that all the hotels are doing renovations), we took in a night-tour of Mumbai. It was nice to be in a city that didn't roll up its sidewalks at 8pm for once. The throngs of people out at the night markets, on the railway system, and along Marine drive were impressive. And some of the architecture left-over from the British Raj was stunning. As with other parts of India, Mumbai is full of contradictions. It has the largest slum in Asia (which we drove past - it stretches for miles) and some of the nicest hotels in the country. We treated ourselves to a late dinner at the luxurious Taj hotel. And K couldn't resist having a Sapphire martini while sitting in Bombay.
The next day, we set off for more archeology at the Elephanta Caves. Our ferry broke down before we left the harbor and, despite my almost coming to blows with the captain, we eventually set off on the one-hour journey in the same [repaired] vessel. Fortunately, the only other nautical incident was K's bout with seasickness on the way back.
The caves were fascinating. Carved out of the cliffs of a lush green island (that D claims looks like the Lost island), they are huge. And even though many of the statues have been damaged, the sense of grandeur survives. Our guide gave us some interesting history about the place, too.
Up next: Jaipur.
After an unnecessarily grueling ordeal with our hotel (the drawback to traveling during the low-tourist-season is that all the hotels are doing renovations), we took in a night-tour of Mumbai. It was nice to be in a city that didn't roll up its sidewalks at 8pm for once. The throngs of people out at the night markets, on the railway system, and along Marine drive were impressive. And some of the architecture left-over from the British Raj was stunning. As with other parts of India, Mumbai is full of contradictions. It has the largest slum in Asia (which we drove past - it stretches for miles) and some of the nicest hotels in the country. We treated ourselves to a late dinner at the luxurious Taj hotel. And K couldn't resist having a Sapphire martini while sitting in Bombay.
The next day, we set off for more archeology at the Elephanta Caves. Our ferry broke down before we left the harbor and, despite my almost coming to blows with the captain, we eventually set off on the one-hour journey in the same [repaired] vessel. Fortunately, the only other nautical incident was K's bout with seasickness on the way back.
The caves were fascinating. Carved out of the cliffs of a lush green island (that D claims looks like the Lost island), they are huge. And even though many of the statues have been damaged, the sense of grandeur survives. Our guide gave us some interesting history about the place, too.
Up next: Jaipur.
Victoria Terminus By Night
A symbol of British power in India, the Victoria Terminus railway station (now renamed) is a stunning building and still accepts a staggering number of commuters each day.
The Queen's Necklace
Marine Drive, in Mumbai, is known as the Queen's Necklace for the lights that circle the bay at that point. Locals and tourists flock to both ends for the views both day and night. This end is near a number of fancy hotels.
Gateway of India Arches
The Gateway of India, put up to welcome King George V, is a blend of British architecture and Mogul designs. I was particularly drawn to the archesand carved patterns.
Monkey Menace
They look cute, but the monkeys on Elephanta island will harrass people for their snacks and soda cans. This guy grabbed K's can right out of the garbage can, tore it open with his claws, and then howled at a few other monkeys who came to share it with him.
Elephanta Island
Such greenery all over the island. The contrast of nature with the carved caves is striking.
Monsoon
The island was intensely green, probably from so much rain all the time. These temples were hewn heroically from the solid rock cliffs.
Five-headed Siva
Many of the sculptures inside the caves were damaged by the Portuguese during their conquest of the region. This statue of Siva, though, survived rather well. It has five different heads: the three visible here, plus one facing the back wall and one on the top, looking up.
Taj and Gateway
Returning from Elephanta Island, the Taj hotel and the Gateway of India greeted us. The seas were rough from the storm and this was a very welcome sight.
Wednesday, August 09, 2006
Chennai
After a few days acclimatizing in Bangalore (and meeting a few Infosys interns), D, K, M, and I flew to Chennai (formerly known as Madras) for the first big stop on our tour of India. I had travelled to Pondicherry - also on the Tamil Nadu coast, in the South-East of the country - but didn't know quite what to expect from this city.
After getting settled in the hotel, we braved the heat and humidity to see some of the sights in town. The deep religious connection of the people here showed through the many temples and churches we came across, the most promienent being Kapaleeswarar Temple and San Thome Cathedral. At the temple, we were lucky to observe to begining of the evening's ritual (broadcast via loudspeakers for those pilgrims too far from the action to hear well), while the church held a bone that once belonged to the apostle, St. Thomas. We also visited the beach - all hailing from California, none of us was used to the sun setting away from the water.
The second day, we took a day trip about two hours South to the ruins of Mahabalipuram. There, we explored 7th century temples and what our guide claimed to be the largest outdoor relief sculpture in the world. Krishna's Butterball is a boulder (see photo below) so massive that a team of seven elephants was supposedly unable to more it from its precarious perch. My luck was no better, but I had to try. The Shore temple was especially interesting. Aside from the fascinating architecture, the tsunami of 2004 revealed six more temples nearby that had been covered by the sea.
The almost complete lack of other tourists made for a quite enjoyable day. And we got some shopping in at the handicrafts store nearby.
On the way back, we stopped at the crocodile park and got to watch the attendents milking cobras for their venom. Not generally a fan of the slithering set, I enjoyed seeing the different kinds of snakes and crocodiles (such big teeth you have!).
Next, we're moving North and West to Mumbai.
After getting settled in the hotel, we braved the heat and humidity to see some of the sights in town. The deep religious connection of the people here showed through the many temples and churches we came across, the most promienent being Kapaleeswarar Temple and San Thome Cathedral. At the temple, we were lucky to observe to begining of the evening's ritual (broadcast via loudspeakers for those pilgrims too far from the action to hear well), while the church held a bone that once belonged to the apostle, St. Thomas. We also visited the beach - all hailing from California, none of us was used to the sun setting away from the water.
The second day, we took a day trip about two hours South to the ruins of Mahabalipuram. There, we explored 7th century temples and what our guide claimed to be the largest outdoor relief sculpture in the world. Krishna's Butterball is a boulder (see photo below) so massive that a team of seven elephants was supposedly unable to more it from its precarious perch. My luck was no better, but I had to try. The Shore temple was especially interesting. Aside from the fascinating architecture, the tsunami of 2004 revealed six more temples nearby that had been covered by the sea.
The almost complete lack of other tourists made for a quite enjoyable day. And we got some shopping in at the handicrafts store nearby.
On the way back, we stopped at the crocodile park and got to watch the attendents milking cobras for their venom. Not generally a fan of the slithering set, I enjoyed seeing the different kinds of snakes and crocodiles (such big teeth you have!).
Next, we're moving North and West to Mumbai.
Bell Tower
Chennai seemed like a well maintained city. This government museum had a very interesting collection of bronze and stone sculptures from the 6th through 15th centuries.
While the skies were blue, the air was a bit too hot and humid. Being by the beach, though, made the nights a little more bearable.
While the skies were blue, the air was a bit too hot and humid. Being by the beach, though, made the nights a little more bearable.
St. Thomas Cathedral
In addition to a wedding, this impressive white edifice also housed a relic of the Apostle St. Thomas (a shard of his arm bone, if I remeber correctly)
Chennai Temple
One of the largest Hindu temples in Chennai, we arrived right at the evening ritual time. The combination of traditional architecture and neon lights was a little disconcerting. But the colors and designs were fascinating.
Pinwheels
The beach had a small carnival set up, complete with a hand-cranked ferris wheel, throw-darts-at-balloons board, and of course, pinwheels.
Boys Will Be Boys
These boys were very excited to show off for a picture. They also wanted us to play in their beach soccer game - a sentiment they expressed by repeatedly kicking the ball into our legs.
Krishna's (big) Butterball
A giant boulder perched precariously on a slope at Mahabalipurim. But the goats aren't too concerned. According to our guide, a team of seven elephants wasn't able to move it.
Cave Temple
A three-part temple carved out of a boulder, there is a shrine each for Bhrama, Vishnu, and Shiva.
Arjuna's Penance
One section of the largest outdoor bas relief sculpture in the world. 27 meters long and 9 meters high, it depicts the story of the hero of Mahabalipurim and the inevitable role of gods, monkeys, demons, and elephants.
Shore Temple
The only one remaining of seven such temples built in the Dravidian style during the 7th-8th centuries. Interestingly, when the water of the 2004 tsunami receeded, the ruins of the other temples were discovered out to sea.
Common Cobra
They were milking this one and others for venom at the crocodile and snake park near Chennai.
Friday, August 04, 2006
End of an Internship
And with my presentation to my peers at SETLabs and the InStep program, I have completed my internship with Infosys Technologies. I am proud of the work I've done here and hope that it will be advanced in the future.
D, K, and M arrive in Bangalore today and we'll take a tour across India. I'm looking foward to seeing them and to traveling some more. I'll post the photos from those travels as I get the chance.
D, K, and M arrive in Bangalore today and we'll take a tour across India. I'm looking foward to seeing them and to traveling some more. I'll post the photos from those travels as I get the chance.
Towers of Color
In the open-air market on a Sunday night in Bangalore, I saw a number of these towers of color. They are spices and pigments used in religious rituals.
Thursday, August 03, 2006
Desserts
On weekends, the Leela Palace - a posh hotel in Bangalore - hosts champagne brunch. Technically, it's "sparkling white wine brunch" because the wine comes from Germany, but that just doesn't have the same ring to it.
A bunch of interns went to the Sunday brunch to celebrate a birthday. The food was delicious - I had almost forgotten how much I enjoy good cheese. There was also a nice blend of Continental and Indian food. I really do enjoy traditional food, but you've got to mix it up every once in a while.
A bunch of interns went to the Sunday brunch to celebrate a birthday. The food was delicious - I had almost forgotten how much I enjoy good cheese. There was also a nice blend of Continental and Indian food. I really do enjoy traditional food, but you've got to mix it up every once in a while.
Wednesday, August 02, 2006
Spicy
I had the opportunity to attend an Indian-style cooking class in Bangalore earlier in the month. It was fascinating to see how many different spices (and different preparations of the same spice) go into the dishes. It didn't seem all that difficult to cook, but I'm not sure I have the patience to deal with grinding this and crushing the other and letting that sit overnight. I'm armed with recipes, so we shall see...
Stew and Appam
By 24thcentury on 2nd August, 2006.
Stew and AppamBy 24thcentury on 2nd August, 2006.
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